Photographs of the Peloponese Explorer Trip
2nd-17th September 2007
John Williams

This trip was run be Explore

Day 1. Arrive at Athens

Day 2. In Athens Athens has been the capital of Greece for less than 200 years, but it has grown rapidly in size. In the morning there was an orientation walking tour (where the guide got lost) which took us past the Parliament buildings, through Syntagma Square and into the Plaka - the old town. You notice the contrast between the modern capital and the old city ­ the well-heeled inhabitants of Kolonaki on the one hand, and the vibrant Plaka quarter on the other. In the afternoon we visited the Acropolis and its museum. Here are the majestic ruins of the Athens of Pericles ­ the Propylaea (or marble entrance hall), the Parthenon (built by Ictinos 2500 years ago), the Temple of Athena Nike (the Wingless Victory), and ­ the monument most venerated by the ancient Athenians themselves ­ the Erechtheion. Tradition relates that gods Athena and Poseidon quarrelled here. The sea-god struck the rock with his trident, causing salt water to gush out, while Athena struck it with her spear and brought forth an olive tree. As olives were deemed to be more useful, the other gods let her take the city under her protection.

Day 3. In Nafplion Nafplion was the first capital of modern Greece and one of the most beautiful coastal towns in the Peloponnese. We climbed up to the Palamidi Fortress for great views. The Palamidi is actually comprised of three seperate fortresses walled together, it was built in 1714 by the Venetians, taken by the Turks the following year, and held until they surrendered it to Kolokotronis after a 15 monthe seige during the War of Independence.

Day 4. Exploring Epidavros We travel south east of Nafplion to Epidavros. Dedicated to Asclepius, the healing god and legendary son of Apollo, the sanctuary here was one of the most important of the ancient world, and it remained a site of pilgrimage from the sith century BC to Roman times. Epidavros is home to one of the greatest and best preserved of all ancient Greek theatres. With its backdrop of rolling hills, this 14,000-seat arena merges perfectly into the landscape, so much so that it was rediscovered and unearthed only in the last century. The acoustics of the amphitheatre are so incredible, it's said that even those sat on the highest tier will hear a coin drop on stage!

Day 5. To Areopolis, via Mycenae Leaving Nafplion we travelled south towards the heart of the Mani Peninsula, pausing en route to visit the mighty ruins of ancient Mycenae. Perched on a hilltop overlooking the modern city, Mycenae is connected to the legend of King Agamemnon who commanded the 10-year long expedition against Troy. The site was unearthed by the archaeologist Schliemann in the 1970's and is prized for its Lion Gate and Royal Tombs. Equally impressive are the "beehive tombs" which include the Treasury of Atreus: the lintel over the monumental Atreus door weighs over 120 tons! Inside, the structure is awesome: the principal chamber dates from about 1350 BC and emulates the grandeur of the Egyptian pharaohs. Homer's epithets of "well-built Mycenae, rich in gold" are well born out in the superbly crafted gold and architecture of the tombs found here which can be seen at the museum. In the afternoon, we moved on to the city of Areopolis.

Day 6. In Areopolis Areopolis is the main town (really a large village) on the Mani Peninsula. It lies some 2 miles from the sea, quite high up and well located for walks. Due to the fires in the region the originally planned walks were not possible however we did get a kind of mystery walk in. Just to the south, a track leads to the remarkable Diros Caves, first investigated in 1949, a pleasant walk with marvellous views across Diros Bay (optional). Since the initial exploration it has been established that this vast subterranean complex was once the home of Neolithic man. A visit here involves taking a boat through tunnels and caverns lined with spectacular rock formations. In the afternoon we took a walk through the rural village of Limeni outlying the city.

Day 7. In and around Areopolis We took a trip to nearby town of Monemvasi - "Greece's Gibraltar". This 13th century Byzantine fortress town occupies a steep, rocky islet which is connected to the coast by a bridge, and it was amongst the first of the Peloponnese fortified towns to be liberated by the Greeks in 1821.

Day 8. In and around Areopolis The Mani is a naturally isolated and traditionally independent area and the people who inhabit its wild landscape have always resisted change and clung to their ancient traditions. In addition to it's interesting history of piracy, the feudal society which developed around the 14th century has left a unique architectural legacy in the form of many marble-roofed towerhouses, once used as a defence against enemy clans and as a sign of family prestige. We charter a bus to discover this fascinationg region, visiting Cape Tenaro; the southern-most point of mainland Greece, Girolimenas and Vathia fortified village.

Day 9. Drive to Pylos via Mystras Leaving the Mani, we head north to the abandoned medieval town of Mystras. Clinging to a steep flank of the Taygetos range, some 150m above the plain, Mystras is silent and ruined today but nevertheless evocative of the people who once lived here and made it prosperous. We wander the cobbled alleyways, exploring the various sun- bleached palaces and houses along the way. Although only ruins remain, the architectural styles and artistic excellence of many wall paintings, mosaics and decorative sculptures are worthy of close inspection. In the Upper Town is the vast arched hall of the Palace of the Despots, with its two standing towers. The beautiful Pantanassa Church, still used by a few smiling nuns, combines both Byzantine and Gothic elements and has some rather fine frescoes. Crowning the summit is the original Frankish Castle (Kastro) with its breathtaking overview of the plain of Sparta. Walking through this phantom city with its scattered ruins is like taking a journey back through time. Later we continue to the harbour town of Pylos.

Day 10. In Pylos We spend the day in this picturesque place set amid olive trees, rocky meadows and off-shore islands. We took a boat trip around the coves and islands of the Bay of Navarino and Sfaktiria island, which has some fine underwater caves.

Day 11. To Pylos and Ancient Olympia Driving north,we stop briefly at Nestor's Palace. Nestor, King of Pylos was one of the strongest and richest leaders of the Greeks during the Trojan War and built this once lavishly decorated palace in around 1500 BC (optional). This afternoon we travel to the ruined monuments of ancient Olympia, birthplace of the Olympic games and one of Greece's most renowned historical sites. The site lies in an enchanting valley setting close to the modern-day town of Nea Olympia. The first monuments to be constructed were in the Altis, or sacred grove, and date back to the 10th-9th century BC. Estimates indicate the games first began in 776 BC, after the worship of Zeus was established. Initially all the principal Greek cities took part in the Olympiads (which were held every four years). As well as wandering through the remains of the gymnasium, wrestling school, stadium and the Temple of Zeus, you could visit the excellent Archaeological Museum (optional) which has many remarkable exhibits on view.

Day 12. To Delphi From Olympia, we head north east pausing briefly in Patra, an important Byzantine port town. A scenic drive takes us through the largest olive grove in Greece to reach Delphi. Perched on the rocky slopes of sacred Mt. Parnassos (2459m), Delphi was the perfect setting for mystery and religious prophecy. Here the god Apollo spoke through the medium of a priestess called the Pythia. After drinking the waters of the nearby Castalian Spring, said to echo with the prophetic voices of Apollo's muses, she swooned over intoxicating fumes emitted from a crack in the ground and uttered strange gabblings, which the priests then translated into verse and gave to the faithful The answers were always so ambiguous that whatever happened they were bound to come true. The site's famous antiquities, including the Temple of Apollo, theatre, stadium and Marmaria Sanctuary are wonderfully picturesque, and the museum contains the much admired `charioteer'. A truly excellent place to visit - we had a superb guide. Photos can't do it justice. Highlight of the trip.

Day 13. Drive back to Athens.

THE END


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